At death, Maori say that a person’s wairua (spirit) comes to Cape Reinga (Te Rerenga Wairua) to cast itself off to the Underworld, to Hawaiki, the Other World, the place of origin. The spirits climb down to a pohutukawa tree … Continued
Some of this is true… My cycle into Val-de-Vesle is through a rolling, manicured countryside, ploughed, plucked, harvested; not quite the Champagne region yet, just north of it. The skies and the landscape are wide and spacious – anything might … Continued
These experiences are separated temporally by years and geographically by thousands of miles. There is no real reason other than the mode of transport why they should be paired – but for that they can be drawn together, they … Continued
The peculiar nature of Rome is that it hides its history in plain sight. This is not an intentional thing, but rather an accident of that history. Rome – the city, as well as the city state that became Italy … Continued
The air temperature is close to -10oC, so sitting on the deck of a boat for 4 hours ensures you feel the chill leaching into your bones. As the sun tries to break through the cloud it creates wonderful slashes … Continued
You don’t ever seem to really leave Naples, the names just change. These names that were once distinct and separate towns and settlements have now melded into one, as if they are the mud and magma rivulets that flow down … Continued
A shaft of light shines on the floor, the beam borne stronger as it passes through the heated mist of steam rising from the baths, seemingly from the very pores of the room. The voices of the bathers form a … Continued
Let’s start with the dead body, and work backwards. A 4 x 4 drives towards us, this cold morning. Dark,anonymous, it takes up more room than it should on the road. We are forced to the left, not forced … Continued
